faq

Paint Questions

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Answer: For interior painting, we will generally need to know what your choices are the day we start. For exterior painting, if we have a lot of prep work then you can decide even slightly after we get started. For interior painting, when we are doing prep work, we can put some sample colors on the wall for you to see how they look in real life as well.

Answer: Absolutely. Color is by and large a very personal decision and sometimes color can be very subjective. What we might like, might not be your taste, and vice versa. But we’re very experienced in helping guide our customers to the right family of colors and thinking through all the factors that can change how this color might look like after it’s applied. Things like lighting, flooring, cabinets, and furniture can all effect that color and how it looks in your home.

Answer: Most latex paints dry within 1-2 hours. Newly available oil based paints dry within 2-3 hours. Although they may be dry to the touch most paint takes about a month to cure to optimal hardness.

Answer: VOC’s or Volatile Organic Compounds are a hot topic these days. VOC’s are toxic chemicals that are released from paint as it dries hence the smell. Paint companies have been working hard for years to produce products that include low or zero VOC’s. There are several reliable Low and Zero VOC products on the market. At Oliveira Painting we strive to protect the environment by using low and zero VOC products whenever possible.

Answer: YES – EPA’s Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule (RRP Rule) requires that firms performing renovation, repair, and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities and pre-schools built before 1978 have their firm certified by the EPA (or an EPA authorized state). You should only use certified painting contractors who are trained by EPA-approved training providers and follow lead-safe work practices.

Answer: We offer a complimentary service to pick up the paint for your job so you don’t have to bother. Just let us know in advance which colors you are using and we’ll take care of the rest.

Answer: We always leave a partial gallon of all of the finish coat materials used on your project – properly labeled by room or area of the project. It’s easier when you call us years from now to do touch-ups if the identical paint is stored in a dry, temperature-controlled space (like a basement).

Answer: Most communities have paint recycling facilities to handle old paint.

Answer: The old adage “you get what you pay for” is true in paint longevity. More expensive paints can last up to twice as long as cheap paint, without chipping, cracking or fading. Premium paints also contain thickening additives to help them roll on more slowly, providing an evenly coated brush or roller stroke. This creates a more uniform surface and requires fewer coats to achieve the desired coverage.

Answer: While each job varies, a combination of brush and roll is typically used to paint interior walls, ceilings, and trim. We spray cabinetry for a high-quality finish. Exterior siding is commonly sprayed and back-brushed or rolled and back-brushed. In either case, brushes are always used!

Answer: This depends entirely on the job at hand and the best way to achieve the desired finish. Each method has its benefits, for example:

Brush – Painting with a brush is often necessary when coating areas such as textured walls. We often use paintbrushes to finish areas that are difficult to reach such as corners or in repainting doors & frames

Roll – For smooth surfaces, using a paint roller provides an even coating that results in a flawless and attractive finish. It is also beneficial to use a paint roller when painting heavily textured areas on exterior paint applications and areas such as painting wood siding.

Spray – spray painting may be required to coat surfaces such as exterior stucco or when painting eaves on a residential painting project. Also, when a high-gloss, blemish-free finish is the goal, spray painting is the ideal method of application. This is commonly the go to method in painting doors and frames and cabinet finishes on new construction and residential re paint jobs.

Answer: You most certainly can. I would say that, most of the time, our everyday pricing from the paint store is going to be better than your sale price, and we simply pass those savings onto you in our estimates. We’ve had a few customers want to save a buck or two and buy inferior products, and unfortunately, that lead to us having to do extra coats to get it to cover. But if there is any way we can help keep the cost down on your job without comprosing quality, we’re all for it!

Answer: Yes, we will use any paint product that you supply.

Answer: Color choice is ultimately the homeowner’s responsibility. There is an additional cost for a color change. The additional cost is determined by how much of the job is completed, along with the cost of the additional paint

Answer: Because of the magnitude of colors and shades/hues within the same color, we suggest an initial visit to your preferred brand paint store to collect samples to bring home (Preferable Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams). We will gladly work with you to identify the best color selections/combinations for your home and give you our opinion.

Answer: We really like working with national, well known brands like Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams and Cabot Stains. Often in the painting industry – you get what you pay for. We put a lot of effort into the preparation and application of the paint, so we want to make sure that it’s going to last. Selection depends usually on each project. We have some customers who prefer a certain brand and we’ll accommodate that request. Sometimes one manufacturer simply makes a better product for your situation so we’ll use the best fit. We will discuss product recommendations during the proposal process. The specific paint line will be selected based on our understanding of your goals for the project.

Answer: Yes, we have many Low and Zero-VOC paints, particularly for interior work. These products are low odor and more environmentally friendly. (We use water-based acrylic paints about 99% of the time).

Answer: If necessary we can use Low or Zero VOC product to eliminate any paint odors.

Answer: Unless you are allergic, it is unlikely that paint fumes will make you ill, however; you may find the odors unpleasant. To keep our painters and customers safe from any possible reaction to exposure to paint fumes, we do our best to open windows and doors to allow air to flow in and of the areas in which we are working. Fumes tend to dissipate very quickly, especially when we are using low or zero VOC paint.

Answer: The fundamental difference between latex and oil paints is the use of different carriers and binders. The carrier is the liquid that evaporates, leaving behind a layer of binder and pigment. In latex paint, the carrier is typically water with glycols or glycol ethers as a solvent. In oil-based paints, the carrier is a formulation of mineral spirits and petrochemical solvents.

Typically latex or acrylic coatings are water-based, lower odor, dry faster, are more flexible and color-fade resistant. Alkyd or oil paints on the other hand, tend to dry slower, level a bit nicer (less brush marks), dry really hard, are more moisture resistant, but only clean up with mineral spirits. Each has their best scenarios for use, but again, we’re using acrylic products about 99% of the time now.

Answer: While oil paint has traditionally been viewed as superior to water-based paints, the chemicals that made oil paints especially durable have been legislated out of use by the government. As such, oil paints are being phased out of the marketplace for residential painting & some commercial/industrial applications. At the same time, the technological advances in 100% acrylic resin latex paints have improved dramatically. At Oliveira Painting we inspects and provides specific recommendations for each project.

Answer: Yes, but that’s probably not going to happen for a while still. Although it’s becoming harder and harder for a consumer to buy a gallon of oil based paint, they are still being made. With VOC law changes over the past 20 years, paint manufacturers have made great strides in improving water-based acrylic coatings to oftentimes out-perform their oil based counterparts.

Answer: Federal clean air regulations have all but eliminated the use of oil-based paint on residential projects as the solvents cause atmospheric ozone, or smog, to form. In the old days, oil was the go-to paint, but starting 30 years ago, coating manufacturers anticipated the need for a ‘cleaner’ paint and invested significantly in the development of water-based products that match or outperform oil-based paints. There is no need to use oil-based paint today; it is a relic of past generations and our planet and our industry are better for it.

Answer: Oil-based paints have been mostly removed from the market for architectural applications. This is due to the constant push for less solvent and lower VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) in the paint formulas. Oil-based paints redeeming qualities include a superior smooth look, good moisture resistance, and ultimate hardness and durability. Unfortunately, because of the curing process, oil-based paints tend to become very brittle as they age, which leads to cracking, peeling, and ultimate failure of the paint. On exteriors and moisture prone areas on interiors, oil-based paints have a tendency to mildew, because some of the ingredients act as a food source for mildew.

Water-based paints, also known as latex and acrylic paints (these are the ingredients that “bind” the paint to the surface), have come so far and have outperformed their counterparts of yesteryear. Today’s latex and acrylic paints exhibit excellent qualities, such as moisture resistance, mildew resistance, flexibility, color fastness, and block resistance (the ability to not stick to itself or objects to stick to the finish, such as items on a painted shelf). Most of the water based paints we use are known as 100% acrylic, which are of the highest quality available.

Answer: A fully encapsulated house poses no threat, but once the paint starts to deteriorate, the risk of lead dust is probable. If the house is showing signs of paint failure, such as peeling and blistering, then the paint may very likely be releasing lead dust. If we are painting a house and disturb any lead paint, we are required by law to follow all EPA RRP and OSHA rules.

Answer: It’s very simple for us to check, and we always do. We use a 3M lead check swab, we rub it on surface and if swab turns red, there’s lead. If you have specific questions about lead paint the EPA maintains a phone number you can call to ask questions: 1-800-424-LEAD

Answer: Lead paint is not a joke. Amongst a variety of other symptoms, it causes learning disabilities in children, digestive problems, impotence, irritability, lethargy, hyperactivity and insomnia, headaches, and in extreme cases it can result in seizures, coma and even death. Children are particularly at risk for lead poisoning by ingestion because of their small size, their tendency to put things in their mouth, and the fact that lead dust has a slightly sweet taste to it, so they tend to return to it if they know where to find it. The EPA, OSHA and DHS all have regulations covering responsible practices for contractors who disturb lead paint, and we follow them strictly. You might find a contractor willing to “bend the rules” to save you some money and you can hire them at your own risk. We don’t play that game.

Answer: Benjamin Moore Paints, Sherwin Williams Paint and Cabot Stain.

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